Crossing the border from Laos to Vietnam went really smoothly. After getting our passports stamped out of Laos, our Lao van driver drove us across "No Man's Land" where we saw Vietnamese guys hoisting refridgerators on to their backs to carry through the jungle across the Vietnamese border...nothing can be done about it once they're in "No Man's Land" unless they get caught coming out of the jungle in Vietnam. Getting into Vietnam was pretty easy because we already had our visas (I got mine in Wellington). Our van was waiting for us just over the border (what I love about Intrepid is how well eveyrthing is organized in terms of accomodation and transportation). We then had a crazy ride through the mountains to Nimh Bin.
Note on driving in Vietnam: Lines = Loose suggestions, Lights = Suggestions, Horns = used at ALL times. So yeah, driving through the mountains in the van was pretty nerve racking looking out the front of the dashboard, so I looked out the side. This was much better because the scenery is stunning, and it was really funny to pass by the motorcycles and see what they could fit on the back. Quite frequently we passed baskets filled with pigs, or chickens, or even live fish floating in a bag...it's so interesting!!
So Nimh Bin was a gross orientation to Vietnam. Really, really dirty and the traffic was overwhelming. Thankfully, we were only there for a night and left early the next morning for Halong Bay, where we were boarding a boat for an overnight boat stay in one of the most beautiful places in SE Asia.
The drive to Halong Bay was about 5 hours, again very exciting drive because of the choatic way the drive, the beautiful scenery (green rice paddies EVERYWHERE), and again the really interesting motobikes transporting every type of good one can imagine.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Homestay- Laos
The last two days in Laos we spent with a hilltribe in Laos. I wasn't particularly looking forward to this bit due to how sick I was but thanks to modern day medicine I held up pretty well, and it turned out to be much more bearable. The hilltribe was a very, very basic village...they do have electricity, but no indoor plumbing. Their toilets are in the back, and they are squat toilets (hence why I was not looking forward to this part of the trip). The houses are built up on bamboo stilts (for the rainy season and shade). The tribe is one that lives off the land, and no one ever really leaves. There are 46 families, 3 generations normally living in the houses. The school was the most depressing bit because it was this one room hut with dirt floors, a few falling apart desks and a little chalk board at the front. Our Laos guide explained to us that about 50 children (ages 6-11ish) are in that one room, taught by one teacher everyday. They only go to school for those ages because that is required by the government (they must learn to read and write, but that's it). If they do want to go on to secondary school they must travel 40 kms away, but what is most prohibitive is the cost of stationary. Also, there isn't much point for them to go, since they are needed to work in the rice paddies.
Intrepid (the tour I'm on) pays this tribe (not sure how much) for every group that goes through, which is good to give the village extra, much needed money, but at the same time it's a little awkward that we're going in there and basically invading their way of life. More recently they have gotten televisions and mobile phones in a lot of their homes, which, along with us westerners coming in all the time, illustrates to the young children what life is like outside of the tribe. My Intrepid guide pointed out that in many ways TV and Westerners travelling to these parts is pretty much helping to spread Western ideals just as the US government wanted to acheive with the Vietnam War, except this way is obviously a lot more peaceful. (My guide hates America by the way). The other awkward part about the stay is that no one speaks any English, so while playing with the children (Soccer and cards) was a great thing to do with them no other interaction was possible, so it feels like we're just invading for the night (which we are...but still). Even dinner was awkward because Laos custom means that they will not eat with us nor let us help clean or cook. After dinner (which was cooked for us by our Laos guide) that I couldnt eat because I still felt so nauseous, we got ready for bed. While I was getting ready it reminded me of Outward Bound/Chewonki. I went to bed, a thin mattress on the floor under a bright pink mosquito net, early (still sick) while Lynda and Leia (my roomates for the night) 'talked' with the family. They recited some Laos words that we had in our books, which made the girls giggle and I think it was really great that did that because it felt less like we were imposing.
The next morning we woke up early and got in the van to head to the Vietnam border!
Intrepid (the tour I'm on) pays this tribe (not sure how much) for every group that goes through, which is good to give the village extra, much needed money, but at the same time it's a little awkward that we're going in there and basically invading their way of life. More recently they have gotten televisions and mobile phones in a lot of their homes, which, along with us westerners coming in all the time, illustrates to the young children what life is like outside of the tribe. My Intrepid guide pointed out that in many ways TV and Westerners travelling to these parts is pretty much helping to spread Western ideals just as the US government wanted to acheive with the Vietnam War, except this way is obviously a lot more peaceful. (My guide hates America by the way). The other awkward part about the stay is that no one speaks any English, so while playing with the children (Soccer and cards) was a great thing to do with them no other interaction was possible, so it feels like we're just invading for the night (which we are...but still). Even dinner was awkward because Laos custom means that they will not eat with us nor let us help clean or cook. After dinner (which was cooked for us by our Laos guide) that I couldnt eat because I still felt so nauseous, we got ready for bed. While I was getting ready it reminded me of Outward Bound/Chewonki. I went to bed, a thin mattress on the floor under a bright pink mosquito net, early (still sick) while Lynda and Leia (my roomates for the night) 'talked' with the family. They recited some Laos words that we had in our books, which made the girls giggle and I think it was really great that did that because it felt less like we were imposing.
The next morning we woke up early and got in the van to head to the Vietnam border!
Lao Air
After 3 days in Luang Prabang, we headed to the airport to catch a flight to the capital, Vientiane. We were flying on Lao Air, an airline that Western governments do not allow their diplomats fly on...the Laos government does not release their airline statistics, add on to that we were flying though the mountains, so it was a nerve-racking! After going through security, we had to get our passport examined and our ticket checked again before boarding the plane. The plane actually seemed alright, relatively new and that made the journey a lot more comfortable. Right after we took off we were handed wet naps for our hands and then a box with biscuits (aka cookies) and some water. Before we knew it we were in Vientiane!
Viantiene is nothing to write home about...so I'll keep this brief. The day after we arrived Leia, Norelle, Lynda and I rented bikes to pedal around the city. A great idea because what there was to see is pretty far apart. The ride itself wasn't that beautiful and it was soooo hot so we didn't use them for too long, but we did get to see all the "important" places. That night I got really sick...thankfully we were in a hotel, because the next night we were at our homestay with a Laos Hilltribe.
Viantiene is nothing to write home about...so I'll keep this brief. The day after we arrived Leia, Norelle, Lynda and I rented bikes to pedal around the city. A great idea because what there was to see is pretty far apart. The ride itself wasn't that beautiful and it was soooo hot so we didn't use them for too long, but we did get to see all the "important" places. That night I got really sick...thankfully we were in a hotel, because the next night we were at our homestay with a Laos Hilltribe.
Friday, April 25, 2008
Elephant Riding
Many of you know that I am no fan of animals. What most of you don't know, however, is that since I arrived in New Zealand last May, I have been slowly coming around to liking them (particularly sheep dogs). Now on this particular trip that I'm on there are included activities (like boat rides, temple visits) and then there are optional activities, such as the cooking class I did in Thailand. On our last day in Luang Prabang, elephant riding was the choice that everyone in the group made. I wasn't particularly keen, but I also didn't want to be the odd one out, so I decided to sign up as well.
I am SO HAPPY that I decided to do it. I had such a good time, and I would recommend this place to anyone coming to Southeast Asia. When we got there, we changed into this ridiculously hideous denim outfits to wear while we bathed the elephants. We then climbed up a ladder to get onto the elephants, which were being "driven" by Laos elephant trainers. We then rode the elephants into the lake, which was quite a thrill given they were so much higher up than I expected. They also had a lot spikier hair than I expected. Once the trainer (who was also on the back of the elephant with me) got the elephant to lie down, we cupped the water and then threw it (gently) onto the animals. There was a big group of us, so there were lots of elephants all clumped together in the water, which also meant there was lots of elephant poo floating around. That was by far the grossest experience, but seeing the faces on people in my group as it came close was priceless. After about 15 min of washing them we rode the elephants out of the water (while my trainer acted slightly innappropriate and would not stop telling me how beautiful I was...oh Laos men!) and changed into our dry clothes.
We then got on the back of the elephants, which were now equipeed with benches on their back (I'm sure they were not comfortable for the elephants) and Lynda, Rob and I all squished onto the bench while the trainer sat on the elephants next. We had a really fun ride across the lake and through the jungle to the other camp. Because it was so uncomfortable to have 3 of squished on there, Rob drove for about 3/4 of the time, which was really funny to see him trying to shout Laos orders at the elephants and then also to have our Laos trainer trying to help and laughing at us.
We finished around lunch, and then got a ride back in the van to our hotel. That night we went back the night markets, and I was in such a good mood from the elephants that I bought a silver bangle bracelet with elephants on it, which I am still wearing right now.
I am SO HAPPY that I decided to do it. I had such a good time, and I would recommend this place to anyone coming to Southeast Asia. When we got there, we changed into this ridiculously hideous denim outfits to wear while we bathed the elephants. We then climbed up a ladder to get onto the elephants, which were being "driven" by Laos elephant trainers. We then rode the elephants into the lake, which was quite a thrill given they were so much higher up than I expected. They also had a lot spikier hair than I expected. Once the trainer (who was also on the back of the elephant with me) got the elephant to lie down, we cupped the water and then threw it (gently) onto the animals. There was a big group of us, so there were lots of elephants all clumped together in the water, which also meant there was lots of elephant poo floating around. That was by far the grossest experience, but seeing the faces on people in my group as it came close was priceless. After about 15 min of washing them we rode the elephants out of the water (while my trainer acted slightly innappropriate and would not stop telling me how beautiful I was...oh Laos men!) and changed into our dry clothes.
We then got on the back of the elephants, which were now equipeed with benches on their back (I'm sure they were not comfortable for the elephants) and Lynda, Rob and I all squished onto the bench while the trainer sat on the elephants next. We had a really fun ride across the lake and through the jungle to the other camp. Because it was so uncomfortable to have 3 of squished on there, Rob drove for about 3/4 of the time, which was really funny to see him trying to shout Laos orders at the elephants and then also to have our Laos trainer trying to help and laughing at us.
We finished around lunch, and then got a ride back in the van to our hotel. That night we went back the night markets, and I was in such a good mood from the elephants that I bought a silver bangle bracelet with elephants on it, which I am still wearing right now.
Laos New Years!
We arrived to Luang Prabang (a World Heritage site) in the afternoon, and were promptly warned by our Laos guide to protect all our valuables because they would get wet on the ride to the guest house. The Laos people celebrate New Years by throwing water into the street onto people/cars passing by...for good luck. He was not kidding about needing to protect our belongings. We had bucket after bucket tossed on us! It was good fun, and not annoying because it was so hot. Although, after a few days of this, it did really start to get annoying.
The guesthouse we stayed at was really, really nice. We were in bungalows with balconies overlooking a nicely manicured lawn. We slept under mosquito nets and ate wonderfully cooked breakfast on our deck. The only downside was that it was a bit far from town, so walking wasn't an option. This meant we had to go in groups whenever we went out, hence why getting to internet was hard.
The next day we got up early to go to the waterfalls. After a strenuous hike to the top, we cooled off in one of the aqua blue swimming areas, and we even used the rope swing, which was being dominated by little Laos boys for a lot of the time. That afternoon we headed back into town to catch the New Years parade. Where we proceeded to get soaking wet, and in addition lots of flour was thrown on us (also supposedly a blessing for good luck, but they have taken it to a new extreme level). By the end of the parade we were so exhausted from the heat and dirty from the buckets of water and flour, that we headed home showered and then got ready to head back into town to hit up the night markets.
The night markets were a lot of fun to look at really interesting art work, jewelry, clothing, and also a lot of crap. Since we were tired, we made this visit brief, the next night though we stayed a lot longer.
The guesthouse we stayed at was really, really nice. We were in bungalows with balconies overlooking a nicely manicured lawn. We slept under mosquito nets and ate wonderfully cooked breakfast on our deck. The only downside was that it was a bit far from town, so walking wasn't an option. This meant we had to go in groups whenever we went out, hence why getting to internet was hard.
The next day we got up early to go to the waterfalls. After a strenuous hike to the top, we cooled off in one of the aqua blue swimming areas, and we even used the rope swing, which was being dominated by little Laos boys for a lot of the time. That afternoon we headed back into town to catch the New Years parade. Where we proceeded to get soaking wet, and in addition lots of flour was thrown on us (also supposedly a blessing for good luck, but they have taken it to a new extreme level). By the end of the parade we were so exhausted from the heat and dirty from the buckets of water and flour, that we headed home showered and then got ready to head back into town to hit up the night markets.
The night markets were a lot of fun to look at really interesting art work, jewelry, clothing, and also a lot of crap. Since we were tired, we made this visit brief, the next night though we stayed a lot longer.
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
Border Crossing- Laos
The morning of our boarding crossing into Laos immediately started well due to the amazing banana pancakes (what we would call crepes) that was served by the lady who ran the guesthouse we stayed at in Chiang Khong. After breakfast, we got in a van for a short drive down to the Mekong river. We then carefully got onto long boats that took across the Mekong (took like 5 min...). Once getting on the shore of Laos (where we were strictly forbidden to take pictures) we walked up the hill to get our passports stamped into Laos and also change our money into Kip. I thought the process would be a lot more militaristic as it is a really strict country, but it was not at all, the guy checking our passports was sitting at this fold out desk and barely glanced at the passports. I think what helped was that on the shore we were also met by our Laos guide- Viang (not sure on the spelling there). In all the countries that we go to, we are required by law to have a guide with us who is licensed by the government. This has been great for me, not just because they are really helpful for translation, especially when we go to places that are not major cities (which is a lot of the time) but also because it is so interesting to talk with them about their lives and their impressions of their home and where the country is heading.
After clearing the border we walked up the hill to the main road where we met our Tuk-Tuks that were taking us to the other side of to get on a big house boat that was to be our transportation for the next two days. The boat is in the picture above. It was a beautiful and relaxing boat ride. A great time to catch up on the journal, read and play cards. That evening, we arrived in Pakbeng. A SMALL Laos town, which the Rough Guide to Southeast Asia states, "for many Pakbeng is the first stop in Laos- Don't Panic!". This statement was definitely important to keep in mind. First of all, when we got there we were immediately swarmed by little boys who wanted to be our sherpas to carry our bags up the sand hill to our guest house. Even though it was pouring rain, the climb didn't appear difficult, so no one really wanted to use them. A few people ended up giving them their bags because they felt bad, but it was really sad to watch them because they were so small and clearly so desperate for any money.
That night we had dinner at a place that had electricity sporadically. The drinks were not refrigerated and the woman cooked by candle light. It was a good introduction to the true meaning of "Laos Time" as our dinner was served very slowly, one at a time. Thankfully, we had our guide with us to translate to the owner/waiter, but even that did not guarantee we got what we ordered. After dinner we walked back to the guesthouse, where the generator had been turned on, so this time we could see what we were doing in the bathroom! My roomate for the night (Leia) and I read until the generator turned off at 1015.
The next morning we woke up and got packed again, this time the boys surrounded the guesthouse about 30 min before we were even ready to leave. Again, the walk wasn't that bad, so no one really used them. We got on the long boat and headed down the Mekong for another relaxing day; this time we were headed for Luang Prabang.
Thursday, April 17, 2008
The Rest of Thailand (SE Asia Part II)
The Thai boxing that we went to in Chiang Mai was a lot different than I expected, mostly because it was little boys boxing against eachother, and I expected it to be Thai men. Also, the ring was in this concrete area with white plastic chairs surrounding it, and the chairs were basically just there for the Westerners and their cameras. The Thai men in the audience (there were no Thai women) stood on either side of the ring, about 10 people deep, all squashed together and spent the time yelling and cheering and coaching from their spots. I really enjoyed watching the rituals the boxers had as they "warmed up" and after the initial shock of its brutality, I started to really get into it, choosing a color to cheer for each time. In the end, I guess it's not rougher than football and rugby, but it is harder to watch because they are just purposely punching and kicking eachother instead of having the purpose of getting a ball to go somewhere.
The next day we took vans up to the border of Thailand and Laos. At our mid-morning stop we stopped at a place called Condoms and Cabbages. Which receives funding from the Bill and Melinda Gates foundation for AIDS and safe sex education. We got coffee there and walked around the area (they also grow vegies, and distribute those with the safe sex education). Where we stopped for lunch we met up with the woman who organized our Laos visas (we gave her our passports and 40 US dollars and a form filled out and then she took them to the border to get them ready for our arrival). We got to Chiang Khong around 4 (where we were staying for the night). The place we stayed at was really nice; it reminded me of a summer camp/ summer lodge on a lake in New Hampshire, expect this overlooked the Mekong with Laos on the other side. Seeking food for our boat trip the next day, Leia, Lynda, and I walked to the main street where we tried to dodge the kids throwing water everywhere. (The past week was Thai and Laos New Years...which consisted of standing on the side of the road and pouring water on those passing by...for good luck). We came back with some snacks, soaking wet, but whatever, it didnt really matter since it's so hot here! (My only concern was for my camera, which did get wet when a man poured much more water than normal down my back...I was not happy about that, but my camera was fine after I gave it a little break) That night we had a family style dinner cooked for us by the lady that runs the guesthouse, we talked about the boat trip to Laos and what was to come, and then some of us played cards. It is always interesting to play cards with people who know the same game but play by different rules, (Especially for someone like me!) in this case we began playing a game that resembled "Hearts" but was not really taught that way, and then after a couple hands Lynda realized she explained it wrong, and then when me and Sean explained the way we normally play, she agreed that our way was the correct way, so we played that for a while longer. The laughs in the process of getting there were so worth it though, so that was good. After cards we went to bed, but I barely slept, thanks to the fact that we spent the whole day being inactive in the car, it was really hot in our rooms, and then the rooster (they are everywhere here) started making its noise at like 330 in the morning, and my ear plugs were useless to that noise! That was ok though because the next day we spent on the boat travelling down the Mekong in Laos (more on that in the next post...)
The next day we took vans up to the border of Thailand and Laos. At our mid-morning stop we stopped at a place called Condoms and Cabbages. Which receives funding from the Bill and Melinda Gates foundation for AIDS and safe sex education. We got coffee there and walked around the area (they also grow vegies, and distribute those with the safe sex education). Where we stopped for lunch we met up with the woman who organized our Laos visas (we gave her our passports and 40 US dollars and a form filled out and then she took them to the border to get them ready for our arrival). We got to Chiang Khong around 4 (where we were staying for the night). The place we stayed at was really nice; it reminded me of a summer camp/ summer lodge on a lake in New Hampshire, expect this overlooked the Mekong with Laos on the other side. Seeking food for our boat trip the next day, Leia, Lynda, and I walked to the main street where we tried to dodge the kids throwing water everywhere. (The past week was Thai and Laos New Years...which consisted of standing on the side of the road and pouring water on those passing by...for good luck). We came back with some snacks, soaking wet, but whatever, it didnt really matter since it's so hot here! (My only concern was for my camera, which did get wet when a man poured much more water than normal down my back...I was not happy about that, but my camera was fine after I gave it a little break) That night we had a family style dinner cooked for us by the lady that runs the guesthouse, we talked about the boat trip to Laos and what was to come, and then some of us played cards. It is always interesting to play cards with people who know the same game but play by different rules, (Especially for someone like me!) in this case we began playing a game that resembled "Hearts" but was not really taught that way, and then after a couple hands Lynda realized she explained it wrong, and then when me and Sean explained the way we normally play, she agreed that our way was the correct way, so we played that for a while longer. The laughs in the process of getting there were so worth it though, so that was good. After cards we went to bed, but I barely slept, thanks to the fact that we spent the whole day being inactive in the car, it was really hot in our rooms, and then the rooster (they are everywhere here) started making its noise at like 330 in the morning, and my ear plugs were useless to that noise! That was ok though because the next day we spent on the boat travelling down the Mekong in Laos (more on that in the next post...)
Cultural Observations
Communication: One of the major difficulties travelling over here is that the Asian culture is sooo different from the Western one that even gestures often make it really difficult to get your point across. Also, because saving face is SO important to the locals, they will not let you know that they do not understand. For example, this morning at breakfast we went to a place on the corner of the road that our hotel is on. The place was bascially some tables set up on tile, and then behind that was a couch and an entertainment center, which displayed the families pictures...so basically picture their family room attached to a dining area. The kitchen was around the corner. Their menus were written in English (broken English) so you would think that they could understand those words. Instead we had a tremendous amount of trouble ordering coffee without milk and then getting extra milk for a woman I was with. Pointing, making gestures and trying different words with very, very simple sentences did not work. The girls kept nodding as if they understood, would go back into the kitchen, and then come out and sit down on the couch and start watching the tv. Finally a brother or another guy working there came and could understand a little better. This difficulty is something faced everyday here. In a way it is a sign that they have not become "too westernized" for travellers seeking that experience, but at the same time the frustration that ensues often takes away from being able to enjoy oneself. We have come to the conclusion that two Westerns (like an American and a German) would be able to understand each other much, much better in the same situation simply because our cultures and gestures are so much more similar.
Dress: It is considered very sexual to reveal your shoulders and knees (if you are a woman), so for Westerners not used to such extreme heat, this makes finding airconditioning and shade a TOP priority most days (hence why I'm in an internet cafe at midday here!). Men can wear whatever they want...but generally they don't reveal their shoulders. Due to the Buddhist beliefs of these countries, it is important to keep in mind where you are placing your feet (the dirtiest, most evil part of the body), and oftentimes we have to take off our shoes before entering a shop or restaurant.
Food: Ordering at restaurants in a foreign country almost always requires an open mind. Thankfully, I am not a picky eater at all, so this hasn't been a difficult experience for me (others on my trip, not so much the same story...which is quite annoying!). However, customer service is nonexistent (will be interesting to see if that's still the case in like 10 years when tourism becomes more common) and so the food is cooked in the order the chef receives the order, and then brought out when it is ready. Also, most nights they do not have something on the menu that they say they do, but do not realize that until they get down to that part on the menu. The food is obviously rice and noodle based, and very spicy (asking for it mild is a risk, because they often get really confused when you're not talking simply or pointing to something directly at the menu). Even though its more spicy than I prefer, I have enjoyed the food.
Misc: The people are generally really nice to westerners, but like in any other place, you do find those that are really good at taking advantage of tourists. Yesterday, we had a driver who was contracted through Intrepid (the tour I'm on) to take some us to see the monks receive alms in the early morning in Luang Prabang. He has driven us places before (like to the waterfalls the previous day and to our hotel the first day) and so we had a relationship with him, as a group, and also he has a business relationship with Intrepid. When we asked him if we needed to pay him after the alms thing, he at first said no. And then a little while later he told us we should each pay him 5000 kip (like 50 cents, but still it's the principal and that is how much most Tuk-Tuk rides cost), we did and then later that day told our leader. The driver was definitely not supposed to charge us at all, so now my leader has to write that up in his report, and it's a shame because that means this driver will probably lost out more than he got from us in the end. The other thing that is pretty sad about the getting money from white people is using children to sell or beg. While it's not something that we want to support by buying something from them, it is also hard because the families do need that money to survive. It is really, really sad to see the kids working so hard to sell and not in school. That is probably what is hardest for me, is to see all these kids around all day, not going to school because their families cannot afford it. The cycle of poverty continues, but also the sex trade that often sucks in these little girls also continues, which is the saddest.
Dress: It is considered very sexual to reveal your shoulders and knees (if you are a woman), so for Westerners not used to such extreme heat, this makes finding airconditioning and shade a TOP priority most days (hence why I'm in an internet cafe at midday here!). Men can wear whatever they want...but generally they don't reveal their shoulders. Due to the Buddhist beliefs of these countries, it is important to keep in mind where you are placing your feet (the dirtiest, most evil part of the body), and oftentimes we have to take off our shoes before entering a shop or restaurant.
Food: Ordering at restaurants in a foreign country almost always requires an open mind. Thankfully, I am not a picky eater at all, so this hasn't been a difficult experience for me (others on my trip, not so much the same story...which is quite annoying!). However, customer service is nonexistent (will be interesting to see if that's still the case in like 10 years when tourism becomes more common) and so the food is cooked in the order the chef receives the order, and then brought out when it is ready. Also, most nights they do not have something on the menu that they say they do, but do not realize that until they get down to that part on the menu. The food is obviously rice and noodle based, and very spicy (asking for it mild is a risk, because they often get really confused when you're not talking simply or pointing to something directly at the menu). Even though its more spicy than I prefer, I have enjoyed the food.
Misc: The people are generally really nice to westerners, but like in any other place, you do find those that are really good at taking advantage of tourists. Yesterday, we had a driver who was contracted through Intrepid (the tour I'm on) to take some us to see the monks receive alms in the early morning in Luang Prabang. He has driven us places before (like to the waterfalls the previous day and to our hotel the first day) and so we had a relationship with him, as a group, and also he has a business relationship with Intrepid. When we asked him if we needed to pay him after the alms thing, he at first said no. And then a little while later he told us we should each pay him 5000 kip (like 50 cents, but still it's the principal and that is how much most Tuk-Tuk rides cost), we did and then later that day told our leader. The driver was definitely not supposed to charge us at all, so now my leader has to write that up in his report, and it's a shame because that means this driver will probably lost out more than he got from us in the end. The other thing that is pretty sad about the getting money from white people is using children to sell or beg. While it's not something that we want to support by buying something from them, it is also hard because the families do need that money to survive. It is really, really sad to see the kids working so hard to sell and not in school. That is probably what is hardest for me, is to see all these kids around all day, not going to school because their families cannot afford it. The cycle of poverty continues, but also the sex trade that often sucks in these little girls also continues, which is the saddest.
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
SE Asia Part One
It is currently 10 am in Luang Prabang, a city on the Mekong in Laos (also the ancient capital. I have been in Laos for about 4 days now, and it has been quite an experience. While the entire trip, since arriving in Bangkok, has been quite the culture shock, Laos is much more so than Thailand. This is not necessarily a bad thing. For one, it's good because it means that the taxi cab drivers arent constantly trying to rip you off and its not so chaotic everywhere you go that is considered a tourist spot. On the other, it is harder to communicate in places like this, more off the beaten path, and comforts (like water, toilets, and even electricity) are much harder to come by. This post is going to be really brief because I don't have much time before I need to get a Tuk-Tuk (like a cab but open air) back to our Guesthouse, pack up, and head to the airport to fly to Vientiane (the capital of Laos).
Hmm where to start? I arrived in Bangkok on the 7th of April, late at night, and was really really tired from a very very long day of travel. After an interesting ride to the hotel (lanes are just suggestions on the highway here, and stopping at any point is totally normal), I basically collasped into bed. The next morning I woke up early and figured I'd go out walking around the hotel to explore the area, as I normally do in other cities that I travel to. This time it was much different. Not only was the heat absolutely suffocating, but the streets have absolutely no order to them, so getting lost is not exactly hard, and for someone like me it happened right away. Also, I soon discovered my hotel was not exactly in a tourist friendly area, so everything was written in Thai and all the markets were not really designed for the kind of shopping that would interest me. I retreated to the airconditioning of the hotel to get directions to the place where I was meeting my friend Sophie (she's a junior at Richmond and studying in Bangkok for her semester abroad). I decided to just head there early and read in the airconditioning until she came. I was really looking forward to talking with her so I could feel a lot less culture shocked. I didnt do as much research as I normally do, before arriving in Thailand, so there were a number of questions like tipping and how much to pay for internet that I needed answered before I could feel more comfortable in the country.
After lunch with Sophie, and my first experience bargainning with the stall owners, I headed back to the hotel and relaxed in the rooftop pool. It was so hot that the pool felt like a bathtub! The next day I met up with Sophie and one of her friends for breakfast and then went off exploring one of the main backpacker-shopping roads. That evening I met up with the Intrepid group that I am now travelling with. After filling out paper work, answering questions, and the usual introductions we went to a nice Thai meal. My group is pretty good...although I'm already starting to get annoyed with travelling in a group (like having to wait for people every 5 min and arriving in a large group at restaurants), but I would not be able to enjoy this experience as much if I were not in a group, so I really shouldn't complain. I am happy though that the obnoxious ones are not Americans because I am so sick of everyone forming opinions of American tourists as the worst (I'm the only American, FYI, so hopefully I'm leaving a good impression!)
After a day of temple visits in Bangkok we got on the night train to Chiang Mai, a 14 hour train ride to northern Thailand. Arriving in Chiang Mai that morning, I signed up for a cooking class, which was such a great experience. I made 4 courses, learned a lot about the ingredients and had a great time enjoying the food with the others in my group. That evening some of us went to the most beautiful temple up a hill in Chiang Mai where we were blessed by a monk and then watched/heard them say their evening chants. After that I went to see Thai boxing...more on that later...must go now!
Hmm where to start? I arrived in Bangkok on the 7th of April, late at night, and was really really tired from a very very long day of travel. After an interesting ride to the hotel (lanes are just suggestions on the highway here, and stopping at any point is totally normal), I basically collasped into bed. The next morning I woke up early and figured I'd go out walking around the hotel to explore the area, as I normally do in other cities that I travel to. This time it was much different. Not only was the heat absolutely suffocating, but the streets have absolutely no order to them, so getting lost is not exactly hard, and for someone like me it happened right away. Also, I soon discovered my hotel was not exactly in a tourist friendly area, so everything was written in Thai and all the markets were not really designed for the kind of shopping that would interest me. I retreated to the airconditioning of the hotel to get directions to the place where I was meeting my friend Sophie (she's a junior at Richmond and studying in Bangkok for her semester abroad). I decided to just head there early and read in the airconditioning until she came. I was really looking forward to talking with her so I could feel a lot less culture shocked. I didnt do as much research as I normally do, before arriving in Thailand, so there were a number of questions like tipping and how much to pay for internet that I needed answered before I could feel more comfortable in the country.
After lunch with Sophie, and my first experience bargainning with the stall owners, I headed back to the hotel and relaxed in the rooftop pool. It was so hot that the pool felt like a bathtub! The next day I met up with Sophie and one of her friends for breakfast and then went off exploring one of the main backpacker-shopping roads. That evening I met up with the Intrepid group that I am now travelling with. After filling out paper work, answering questions, and the usual introductions we went to a nice Thai meal. My group is pretty good...although I'm already starting to get annoyed with travelling in a group (like having to wait for people every 5 min and arriving in a large group at restaurants), but I would not be able to enjoy this experience as much if I were not in a group, so I really shouldn't complain. I am happy though that the obnoxious ones are not Americans because I am so sick of everyone forming opinions of American tourists as the worst (I'm the only American, FYI, so hopefully I'm leaving a good impression!)
After a day of temple visits in Bangkok we got on the night train to Chiang Mai, a 14 hour train ride to northern Thailand. Arriving in Chiang Mai that morning, I signed up for a cooking class, which was such a great experience. I made 4 courses, learned a lot about the ingredients and had a great time enjoying the food with the others in my group. That evening some of us went to the most beautiful temple up a hill in Chiang Mai where we were blessed by a monk and then watched/heard them say their evening chants. After that I went to see Thai boxing...more on that later...must go now!
Thursday, April 3, 2008
Emily's Visit
Emily arrived on Monday, March 17th, a beautiful, warm sunny day here in Wellington. That afternoon we walked around a little bit downtown, then went to the grocery store to pick up some dinner. Emily was tired from travelling, so we both went to bed pretty early. Tuesday, we spent the day (another hot, sunny day) exploring Wellington. In the morning we went to the Te Papa (New Zealand's main museum) and then had lunch on the water front. We then went to the beach down the street from my apartment. It was a little bit too cold to actually go into the water, and we didnt have beach towels, so we didn't spend too long there. Then we went to get gelato at Kaffee Eis, right across from the beach. Emily absolutely loved the gelato, and we ended up going 3 more times while in Wellington! Tuesday night, Emily and I met up with some of my girlfriends here in Wellington for dinner at my favorite Indian restaraunt and then we went to see P.S. I love you (yes, my second time).
Wednesday morning we flew to Christchurch. We caught a shuttle to our hostel, which was a refurbished jailhouse just outside of the city. Despite the really small rooms, the hostel was extremely clean, and the people working there were great for directions and helping us to book dolphin swimming for that Friday. Emily and I headed out to get lunch and explore the area for the afternoon. It was 30 degrees celsius, and so after walking for a while in the hot sun, and my sandals, we were not in such a great mood by the end of the day (I had a huge blister, and yes, I made sure Emily knew about this about every 5 min!). When we got back to the hostel, we got a movie from reception (Memoirs of A Geisha) and watched in their "cinema," which was a room that projected movies onto a white wall in front of semi-comfortable chairs. We then cooked dinner together in the hostel kitchen, read for a bit and went to bed. Thursday morning we walked into town (my blisters were a little better, and it was less hot!), and on our walk we walked through the botanical gardens. When I was in Christchurch during the winter, a few times I ran in these gardens, but obviously nothing was in bloom. This time, the gardens were gorgeous and it was such a pleasant walk. I'm really glad I had the opportunity to see Christchurch again, with much better weather, because now I have a better picture of it in my mind. Emily and I went on a tour of a fudge kitchen in the arts centre area of Christchurch, and spent the rest of the day window shopping (there isnt really much do to in Christchurch...). Thursday night was the Jack Johnson concert (which is why we flew to Chch in the first place).
The tickets said that the concert started at 630, which I thought was strange for a concert, but we didn't have anywhere else to be, so we walked down there at 630 (about 10 min from our hostel). There was a massive queue (aka line), because the doors had yet to open. I immediately realized that this was typical Kiwi organization, and that the concert organizers had misprinted the start of the concert, but it wasnt worth it for us to just go back and hang out in the hostel. Matt Costa (the opening act) came on around 730 and he was great. He definitely is going to be a big in a couple of years, he was a great performer and singer, although would have been a little better in a more intimate setting (not a medium size arena). Jack Johnson came on around 9, and although Emily and I were tired from standing for so long, we still really enjoyed the concert. His singing was exactly like the album, he had a great stage presence, and it's always great when you know most of the songs!
Friday morning we were up early to get a shuttle to Akaroa, a small, waterfront town about 1.5 hours south of Christchurch. The drive was stunning though the hills and then eventually down to the water. The town was even cuter than I expected, as most small Kiwi towns are pretty much the same and really hard to distinguish from each other. This one has a lot of French influence, and as a result a lot of character. Emily and I got suited in our wetsuits, and then hopped on the boat with the rest of our group to spend about 45 min swimming with Hector/Maui Dolphins. The experience was different than I expected because this one was more enviromentally/animal friendly. We were not allowed to touch the dolphins, but it was still a lot of fun floating around in the water while the dolphins swam around and through our group, on a very beautiful day. That night, Emily and I had a great dinner in downtown Christchurch, and then got ready to head Auckland the next day.
Once in Auckland, we picked up the rental car and then drove off (very nervously!) with Whangarei as our destination. After the first 10 min, I was a lot more confident about the whole driving on the other side of the road situation, and I began to really appreciate and enjoy the freedom of having a car while you travel. (Even though I was a lot more confident, Emily still had to frequently point out that I was too close to the left side of the road). After about a 2.5 hour drive to Whangarei (a magnificent drive by the way), we arrived at our hostel, which was located about 10 min drive from Whangarei's center, on a big farm. It had the feel of a B&B, and our room was really plesant, it made you feel like you were renting someone's Cape Cod house. Sunday, we were up before the sun, to drive to Tutukara where we leaving from to dive the Poor Knights. The Poor Knights (named my James Cook, supposedly b/c the area looked like his breakfast, called Poor Knights), is ranked as one of the top ten dive spots in world. I was really nervous to dive because it had been awhile, and I was afraid I wasn't going to be able equalize my ears, and thus not be able to dive for the day. Emily was nervous because the water was really cold (about 68 degrees farenheit) and her wet-suit didn't fit that well. All our fears were quickly squashed. The wet suits (7 mm thick) worked amazingly well, and diving with a guide was not only good for showing us the way under the water, but also she helped us rusty divers get down and up safely. The two dives were great, less too see compared to the tropics that Emily and I were used to (obviously) but still really amazing to be 20 meters below sea level and exploring that world. My favorite part was during the second dive when we swam up to an underwater cave and came up into the cave, took out our regulators and chatted, all while we were 7 meters below the sea!
Sunday night, Easter night, Emily and I ate a nice dinner at one of the only restaraunts we could find open. It didnt feel like Easter at all, but it was still a really yummy dinner, and after such a spectacular day, it was my favorite Easter by far. Monday, Emily and I slept in and then decided to head to the beach. We didn't really have directions, so we didn't end up getting to the beach we wanted to, at first. The first place we ended up was literally at the end of the road we had driven on for close to two hours. The drive was so amazing, and when the road ended we were at an estuary with a small bridge over it. The place reminded me of Westport, or any other small waterfront town, and the bridge was filled with locals fishing and jumping off of. Emily and I walked around the waterfront, took some pictures, and then it started to rain a bit, so we got back in the car and drove back, trying to find our original destination. We found the correct turn off and eventually got to the Ocean Beach we were looking for. The beach had some great waves and was a huge beach, complete with sand dunes. As soon as we got out of the car, I was even more excited to get to the sand area because it smelled just like beaches in New England! Emily and I ate our lunch, read, tanned and then each took turns swimming in the water, which was surprisingly warm.
Tuesday morning, we drove back to Auckland, returned the car and then flew back to Wellington. Tuesday night, we ordered Hell's Pizza (a popular Kiwi pizza chain) and watched House and Boston Legal (a Tuesday night tradition in my flat). Wednesday, Emily's last day in Wellington, we spent shopping and eating all the delicious treats that are special to New Zealand (like Melting Moments). I had such a good time travelling around with Emily. We were blessed with amazing weather the entire time, which not only made our travels more enjoyable, but also allowed me to appreciate parts of New Zealand (like Christchurch that I had only experienced during the weather). I loved being able to scuba dive in the North of New Zealand, something I definitely would not have done without Emily, and so I'm so happy we had that opportunity. I am also really glad that I was able to share my life with Emily, so she can understand what it's been like for me living over here.
Wednesday morning we flew to Christchurch. We caught a shuttle to our hostel, which was a refurbished jailhouse just outside of the city. Despite the really small rooms, the hostel was extremely clean, and the people working there were great for directions and helping us to book dolphin swimming for that Friday. Emily and I headed out to get lunch and explore the area for the afternoon. It was 30 degrees celsius, and so after walking for a while in the hot sun, and my sandals, we were not in such a great mood by the end of the day (I had a huge blister, and yes, I made sure Emily knew about this about every 5 min!). When we got back to the hostel, we got a movie from reception (Memoirs of A Geisha) and watched in their "cinema," which was a room that projected movies onto a white wall in front of semi-comfortable chairs. We then cooked dinner together in the hostel kitchen, read for a bit and went to bed. Thursday morning we walked into town (my blisters were a little better, and it was less hot!), and on our walk we walked through the botanical gardens. When I was in Christchurch during the winter, a few times I ran in these gardens, but obviously nothing was in bloom. This time, the gardens were gorgeous and it was such a pleasant walk. I'm really glad I had the opportunity to see Christchurch again, with much better weather, because now I have a better picture of it in my mind. Emily and I went on a tour of a fudge kitchen in the arts centre area of Christchurch, and spent the rest of the day window shopping (there isnt really much do to in Christchurch...). Thursday night was the Jack Johnson concert (which is why we flew to Chch in the first place).
The tickets said that the concert started at 630, which I thought was strange for a concert, but we didn't have anywhere else to be, so we walked down there at 630 (about 10 min from our hostel). There was a massive queue (aka line), because the doors had yet to open. I immediately realized that this was typical Kiwi organization, and that the concert organizers had misprinted the start of the concert, but it wasnt worth it for us to just go back and hang out in the hostel. Matt Costa (the opening act) came on around 730 and he was great. He definitely is going to be a big in a couple of years, he was a great performer and singer, although would have been a little better in a more intimate setting (not a medium size arena). Jack Johnson came on around 9, and although Emily and I were tired from standing for so long, we still really enjoyed the concert. His singing was exactly like the album, he had a great stage presence, and it's always great when you know most of the songs!
Friday morning we were up early to get a shuttle to Akaroa, a small, waterfront town about 1.5 hours south of Christchurch. The drive was stunning though the hills and then eventually down to the water. The town was even cuter than I expected, as most small Kiwi towns are pretty much the same and really hard to distinguish from each other. This one has a lot of French influence, and as a result a lot of character. Emily and I got suited in our wetsuits, and then hopped on the boat with the rest of our group to spend about 45 min swimming with Hector/Maui Dolphins. The experience was different than I expected because this one was more enviromentally/animal friendly. We were not allowed to touch the dolphins, but it was still a lot of fun floating around in the water while the dolphins swam around and through our group, on a very beautiful day. That night, Emily and I had a great dinner in downtown Christchurch, and then got ready to head Auckland the next day.
Once in Auckland, we picked up the rental car and then drove off (very nervously!) with Whangarei as our destination. After the first 10 min, I was a lot more confident about the whole driving on the other side of the road situation, and I began to really appreciate and enjoy the freedom of having a car while you travel. (Even though I was a lot more confident, Emily still had to frequently point out that I was too close to the left side of the road). After about a 2.5 hour drive to Whangarei (a magnificent drive by the way), we arrived at our hostel, which was located about 10 min drive from Whangarei's center, on a big farm. It had the feel of a B&B, and our room was really plesant, it made you feel like you were renting someone's Cape Cod house. Sunday, we were up before the sun, to drive to Tutukara where we leaving from to dive the Poor Knights. The Poor Knights (named my James Cook, supposedly b/c the area looked like his breakfast, called Poor Knights), is ranked as one of the top ten dive spots in world. I was really nervous to dive because it had been awhile, and I was afraid I wasn't going to be able equalize my ears, and thus not be able to dive for the day. Emily was nervous because the water was really cold (about 68 degrees farenheit) and her wet-suit didn't fit that well. All our fears were quickly squashed. The wet suits (7 mm thick) worked amazingly well, and diving with a guide was not only good for showing us the way under the water, but also she helped us rusty divers get down and up safely. The two dives were great, less too see compared to the tropics that Emily and I were used to (obviously) but still really amazing to be 20 meters below sea level and exploring that world. My favorite part was during the second dive when we swam up to an underwater cave and came up into the cave, took out our regulators and chatted, all while we were 7 meters below the sea!
Sunday night, Easter night, Emily and I ate a nice dinner at one of the only restaraunts we could find open. It didnt feel like Easter at all, but it was still a really yummy dinner, and after such a spectacular day, it was my favorite Easter by far. Monday, Emily and I slept in and then decided to head to the beach. We didn't really have directions, so we didn't end up getting to the beach we wanted to, at first. The first place we ended up was literally at the end of the road we had driven on for close to two hours. The drive was so amazing, and when the road ended we were at an estuary with a small bridge over it. The place reminded me of Westport, or any other small waterfront town, and the bridge was filled with locals fishing and jumping off of. Emily and I walked around the waterfront, took some pictures, and then it started to rain a bit, so we got back in the car and drove back, trying to find our original destination. We found the correct turn off and eventually got to the Ocean Beach we were looking for. The beach had some great waves and was a huge beach, complete with sand dunes. As soon as we got out of the car, I was even more excited to get to the sand area because it smelled just like beaches in New England! Emily and I ate our lunch, read, tanned and then each took turns swimming in the water, which was surprisingly warm.
Tuesday morning, we drove back to Auckland, returned the car and then flew back to Wellington. Tuesday night, we ordered Hell's Pizza (a popular Kiwi pizza chain) and watched House and Boston Legal (a Tuesday night tradition in my flat). Wednesday, Emily's last day in Wellington, we spent shopping and eating all the delicious treats that are special to New Zealand (like Melting Moments). I had such a good time travelling around with Emily. We were blessed with amazing weather the entire time, which not only made our travels more enjoyable, but also allowed me to appreciate parts of New Zealand (like Christchurch that I had only experienced during the weather). I loved being able to scuba dive in the North of New Zealand, something I definitely would not have done without Emily, and so I'm so happy we had that opportunity. I am also really glad that I was able to share my life with Emily, so she can understand what it's been like for me living over here.
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